Melancholic Vanity for Chinese Millennials
BOF Lyst Index
Thom Browne – 3 striped logo cardigan
Recognizable lucid logos however come with a hefty price tag ranging anywhere from 2-5K for a simple cotton T to up to 10-20K for a hoodie, at this rate many cannot afford the real thing and opt for copycats instead dwelling on a greyer market with Taobao, making the rate of fashion changing into ultra-fast fashion.
Balenciaga Trainers- Copies
Daigou (overseas shopping services) , official retailers , and ‘special’ model/talent/blogger girls 外围女 (aka sex show girls), are often the main social channels for most millennials to refer to; you’ll see the results at hot night clubs in both first and second tier cities as well as institutions for studying abroad.
‘New’ luxury streetwear brands such as Off-White and Vetements have proven us the new power for celebrity conversion and logos, its arguably “ok” to state that it’s no longer the timeless historical content of a brand that shake millennials wallets but who’s wearing what in the current Nowness of time.
Yanie Yanson Milan- all bags from Zanellato, Shirt from ZARA
Key brands today are now being bought and invested by major foreign investment today in order to increase funds and market competitiveness, from Missoni and Dries Van Noten signing deals in the past month alone. Conglomerates such as Fosun intl. group buying out French luxury house Lanvin, textile group Shandong Ruyi Group buying Bally and SMCP (Sando, Maje, Claudie Pierlot), HK Billionaire Peter Woo buying shares of Salvatore Ferragamo and Chinese menswear unit Trinity buying off Gieves & Hawkes, Kent & Curwen (Shandong Ruyi owns a controlling stake in Trinity) just to name a few, are only some examples of this new trend.
Consequently, many brands are starting to lose their identities over time in order to seek immediate conversion, pushing frontal logos into their new collections, changing the models, changing their structure and form, in order to keep up with ‘the trends”. When you’re not a streetwear born brand it’s really hard to fake being one, especially when you’re from a luxury back ground, the aesthetics and sense are strongly different and your fans know when you start going out of your territory just to ‘sell yourself’. A brand that is only running and trying to ‘keep up with the trends’ is deemed to be a company potentially at stake, especially when the collection starts going too far out from its original nature, it may just look like a cheap sell off.
What do you think?
Sources 来源: hypebeast, BOF, WWD, highsnobiety.com, Interviews, Surveys,Taobao