The Lifespan of Independent Fashion Designers in 2018
· Missoni getting sold to a private investment fund
· Dries Van Noten selling to the Spanish family PUIG.
· Acne studios selling ( the final bid should end before this summer where rumors say it will be sold to China’s Fosun Group)
· Perry Ellis selling to private investor
· Helly Hensen Sports wear getting bought out by Canadian Tire corp
· Wolford Ag stockings bought by Chinese Conglomerate Fosun Group
· American brand ,Nautica, bought by Authentic Brands Group LLC (ABG) (which also owns Juicy Couture, Jones New York, Herve Leger etc. )
· Independent designers Fyodor Golan being acquired by Fashion investor Eisha Bharati Pasricha
· Greek fashion designer , Mary Katrantzou, selling to Wendy Wu
· Victoria Beckham Limited selling to Neo Investment Partners (Nov.2017)
· Supreme, selling its shares to The Carlyle Group (Oct 2017)
· Jimmy Choo selling to Michael Kors for 1.2bn USD (2017)
· Cath Kidston selling to Chinese private equity
· And the list goes on……and on…
As McQueen replaced John Galliano in the 90’s as Creative Director, Givenchy could be seen as the bad side of the late 90s, early 00s (monochromatic with a slight street edge –a bit too ahead of its time during that decade for the public and press ).But it was all marked with the drama of the Gucci Group (Kering’s) takeover of Alexander McQueen’s own label. McQueen as Givenchy creative director, and thus an employee of the LVMH group, had sold 51% of his own name-sake brand to LVMH’s competitor, the Gucci Group. It was business, but it was also drama and the fashion world and one of the perfect cases to showcase ; an real independant designer getting bought by 2 conglomerate companies at the same time . McQueen left the house of Givenchy in 2001.
Hermès A/W 1999-2000: shawl-collar cardigan and sleeveless tunic pullover in cashmere,’Portraits de femme en Hermès’, Le Monde d’Hermès; model: Marie-Anne Van derPlaetsen. Photo: Joanna Van Mulder
Left, Martin Margiela for Hermès S/S 1999; right, MaisonMartin Margiela S/S 2009
Left, Maison Martin Margiela A/W1992-1993. Photo: Marina Faust. Right, Martin Margiela for Hermès A/W2002-2003: tunic pullover in cashmere, pants in cashmere flannel, scarf inlambskin, ankle boots and gloves in leather. Photo: Stany Dederen
“Margiela is really one of the forerunners of slow fashion – even before the concept existed. The Maison was about allowing time, using the colour white which shows the passage of time, reworking vintage and second-hand clothing and showing the production process on the outside of a garment – there were a number of different strategies to really resist this obsession of fashion with constant innovation and eternal youth. He did that at Hermès, not by using second-hand materials, but by developing this slowly evolving wardrobe. A lot of the garments can be worn in two, three or even four different ways.” says Kaat Debo, Director at Antwerp’s MoMu fashion museum and curator.
Martin Margiela for Hermès S/S2003: trenchcoat in cotton gabardine, sleeveless pullover in cashmere and silk,pants in wool, ankle boots in leather, and ‘Losange’ headscarf in silk crêpe.Photo: Stany Dederen
Left, Martin Margiela for Hermès, L/Z 2000: ‘Leporte vêtement’. Photo: Monica Ho. Right, the jacket wrapped up like a picnic blanketon the catwalk. Photo: Marina Faust
Left, Maison Martin Margiela A/W1991-1992. Photo: Marina Faust. Right, Martin Margiela for Hermès A/W2002-2003: ‘Les Gestuelles’. Photo: Marina Faust
Photo taken by Suzie Menkez for Vogue